بهترين منبع تغذيه

[AMD>INTEL]

Fortron 400W (For Lowend to Midrange PC's)
$52: XClio 450BL 450W (For 95%+ of All Modern PC's)
$79: Enermax 535W SLI-Ready (For SLI & DFI N4 mobos)
$239: PC P&C 510 ASL (THE BEST PC PSU EVER MADE
$125: OCZ PowerStream 520W (The Best All-Round PSU Available

[AMD>INTEL]

يه منبع تغذيه مدرن و خوب بايد شاخه +12ولتش قوي باشه.پايين ترين آمپري كه براي +12 ولت توصيه ميشه 26a است. اگر كه ميخواهيد از تكنولوژي sli استفاده كنيد اين حداقل ميرسه به 34a .

[AMD>INTEL]

$26.50 & shipping [20-pin ATX Only]
ENERMAX EG301P-VB-1-FM 300W
Output +3.3V@28A; +5V@30A; -5V@1A; +12V@22A; -12V@1A; +5VSB@2.2A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817103463

$35 after mail in rebate & shipping [20-pin ATX Only]
ePOWER Tagan TG-380 ATX 380W
Output +3.3V@28A, +5V@37A, +12V@22A, -5V@0.8A, -12V@1A, +5VSB@2.5A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817101508

$52.99 & shipping [20-pin ATX Only]
ENERMAX EG465P-VE(FC) ATX 460W
Output +3.3V@35A; +5V@35A; -5V@1A; +12V@33A; -12V@1A; +5VSB@2.2A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817103440

$65 & shipping [20-pin ATX Only]
PC P&C Silencer 360 ATX 360W
Output: +5V @ 30A, +12V @ 21A, -12V @ 0.8A, +3.3V @ 26A, +5VSB @ 2A
http://www.pcpowercooling.com/produ...6ATX&view=about

$68.00 & shipping [24-pin ATX, includes 20-pin adaptor]
VANTEC ION 2 VAN-460N ATX12V/ EPS12V 460W
Output +3.3V@28A; +5V@30A; -5V@0.5A; +12V@30A; -12V@0.8A; +5VSB@3.0A
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16817103465

[AMD>INTEL]

ليست و وب سايت شركتهاي توليد كننده پاور:
Akasa: http://www.akasa.com.tw/

Antec: http://www.antec.com/us/

Enermax: http://www.enermax.com.tw/main.php

Fortron Source: http://www.fsp-group.com.tw/english...01_overview.asp

Hiper: http://www.hipergroup.com/products/power.html

I-Star: http://www.circotech.com/iraposu.html

OCZ: http://www.ocztechnology.com/

PC Power & Cooling: http://www.pcpowercooling.com/home.htm

Seasonic: http://www.seasonicusa.com/

Silver Stone: http://www.silverstonetek.com/index.asp

Sparkle Power: http://www.sparklepower.com/

Tagan: http://www.tagan.com/main.htm

TTGI (Super-Flower): http://www.ttgiusa.com

VANTEC: http://www.vantecusa.com/home.html

ZALMAN: http://www.zalmanusa.com/usa/usa_index.asp

ZIPPY/EMACS: http://www.zippy.com.tw/P_PRODUCT.asp?lv_rfnbr=2

[AMD>INTEL]

استفاده از دو پاور در يك سيستم

[AMD>INTEL]

تست كردن ريلهاي ولتاژ در پاور:
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=137886

[AMD>INTEL]

Voltages & Amperage: Only the +3.3V, +5V & +12V are used by modern computers. Spec is usually +/- 5%. When the original ATX spec was written the +3.3V & +5V were far more stressed by heavy usage demands than they are in today’s computers. Almost any high quality ATX spec PS of 300Watts or more can supply far more +3.3V & +5V amperage than today’s computers require. Today’s computers, especially the AMD A64’s and the latest Intel P4’s stress the +12V rail the most, requiring far more amperage than was originally called for in the original ATX spec for the +12V rail.

Wattage: Voltage times Amperage equals Wattage. Wattage is the ability to do work; it can be converted into Horse Power. A PS’s wattage rating is the total combined wattage output of all the rails combined. Older ATX designs created most of their wattage in the +3.3 & +5V rails, creating very little on the +12V rail. Newer ATX12V & ATX12 V2.0 designs are creating ever more wattage on the +12V rail, to meet the needs of today’s & tomorrow’s computers.
To see why total wattage should never be used to select a power supply, but that the properly allocated wattage is very important in selecting the proper PS, please click on the following link to the ONLY "Power Supply Calculator" that I can & DO RECOMMEND, provided by & constantly updated by "mnemonik23": http://www.extreme.outervision.com/

Dual +12V Rails: Most PS’s today supply all of their +12V amperage through one rail, just like almost every PS manufacturer supplies their +3.3V and +5V through one rail each. However some forward thinking manufacture’s are supplying their +12V amperage through more than one rail, the most common today for PC’s is to use two +12V rails or dual rails. The new ATX12 V2.0 spec. also requires dual (or more) +12V rails.

Why more than one +12V rail? Electrical isolation for noise and improved voltage regulation. Some devices, usually electromechanical ones having motors, produce noise spikes & voltage fluxuations, these can include pumps, compressors, fans, drives, lights (when turned on & off) and probably TEC’s & Peltiers. By putting these “noisy” devices, that often turn on & off, or at least often change their power (amperage) demands, on a separate rail we isolate them from the MoBo, CPU, Video Card(s) and the other electronic components that are sensitive to noise & sudden changes in voltage. This is a good thing! ATX12 V2.0 is the future. Additional Information: http://www.ssiforum.org/Power%20Sup..._Spec%202_1.pdf (PDF)

Hold Up Time: Measured in milliseconds (ms) is how long the PS will continue to supply in spec voltage & amperage, once the AC input voltage is removed. The longer the hold up time generally the higher the quality of the PS. Hold up time gives the time necessary for an Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) to switch to batteries and allow uninterrupted operation of the computer.

Efficiency and Temperature: There are no electronic devices that are 100% efficient & PS’s are no exception. Typically PS’s operate between 60% and 70% efficiency. The more efficient the PS, the less power that is lost as heat and the lower the cooling requirements. Newer PSU's meeting the ATX12V 2.xx specs have efficiency ratings from 70% to as high as 85%. The Antec Phantom's & the Seasonic S-12's are 80%+ efficient.

Reading and Adjusting Voltages: BIOS and software such as Motherboard Monitor 5 (MM5) can not be fully trusted to give accurate voltage readings and since many of today's better PS's allow the user to easily adjust their voltages, it is very important that a voltmeter/multimeter be used to measure these voltages correctly.
How Measure PS Voltages (Rails): http://forums.extremeoverclocking.c...ad.php?t=137886
Recommended Digital Multimeter (DMM): http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.p...43&postcount=12

PFC: Power Factor Correction: This has always been important for large scale commerical applications,
now it is something that the home & small office user can also consider,
especially if you are going to be operating outside of north america.
Here is a good explination of PFC: http://www.rojakpot.com/default.asp...&var1=81&var2=0
APC on PFC: ftp://www.apcmedia.com/salestools/SADE-5TNQYL_R0_EN.pdf

APC UPS: American Power Conversion (APC) http://www.apcc.com makers of IMO the world’s finest Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS), check them out, I promise that you will be glad you did.
I recommend this one as it also protects your network connections.
Back-UPS ES 725 Broadband: http://www.apc.com/resource/include...ase_sku=BE725BB
Available at new egg for $81: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-101-127&depa=1

[AMD>INTEL]

براي استفاده از مادربردهاي انفورس 3 و4 حتما از پاورهاي 24 پين استفاده كنيد. كه داراي 5v براي حافظه.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7619

[Hwt]

http://www.akasa.com.tw/images/product_photos/psu/water_mark_ak_p550ff_v1.jpg
http://www.akasa.com.tw/akasa_english/spec_page/psu/spec_ak_p550ff_bkv2.htm
جديدا وارد بازار ايران شده . يك رقيب جدي براي ساير پاورها به شمار ميره .

[gray_wolf]

Akasa يك از بهترين پاورهاي دنياست. قيمت داري؟

[Hwt]

راستش نه اما پايتخت بود . واقعا كلاس خاصي داره در عين سادگي . http://qsmile.com/qsimages/181.gif
فقط بايد ديد نوع گارانتيش و قيمتش در چه حده .

[Hwt]

راستي ارا از پاورت راضي هستي؟

[gray_wolf]

راستي ارا از پاورت راضي هستي؟
خيلي راضيم. پاور خوب پاوريه كه داغ نكنه چون توانش افت ميكنه. اين پاوره نتنها داغ نميكنه بلكه هميشه سرده! :blink:
َAcrive PFC هم هست.
سه تا ريل 12 ولت داره. به ترتيب 11 و 21 و 12 آمپر ميدن. يعني جمعا 44 آمپر.
ديگه چي بگم؟
آهان! اسم پاور! :d
ACBell 500W Gold

[Hwt]

خيلي راضيم. پاور خوب پاوريه كه داغ نكنه چون توانش افت ميكنه. اين پاوره نتنها داغ نميكنه بلكه هميشه سرده! :blink:
َAcrive PFC هم هست.
سه تا ريل 12 ولت داره. به ترتيب 11 و 21 و 12 آمپر ميدن. يعني جمعا 44 آمپر.
ديگه چي بگم؟
آهان! اسم پاور! :d
ACBell 500W Gold
چند خريدي ؟ گارانتي كجاست؟

[gray_wolf]

چند خريدي ؟ گارانتي كجاست؟
100 تومن گارانتي 3 ساله آلبالو.
سيستم من خيلي مصرف بالايي داره. تازه اوركلاك هم ميكنم! ديگه حسابشو بكن هر پاوري جوابگوي كارم نيست! ولي اين اصلا خم به ابرو نمياره!

[ARH]

براي استفاده از مادربردهاي انفورس 3 و4 حتما از پاورهاي 24 پين استفاده كنيد. كه داراي 5v براي حافظه.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7619

اميد يك دستي ميزني ؟ :d :d :d شايعه شده اگه حتمي 24 پين نبنديم هاردامون ميپره

آقا جريان اين ريل هاي ولتاژ چيه ؟ مثلا پاوري كه دو تا ريل 12 ولت داره از پاور من كه هيچي نداره بد تره ؟ :wacko: :laugh:

[ARH]

َAcrive PFC هم هست.
سه تا ريل 12 ولت داره. به ترتيب 11 و 21 و 12 آمپر ميدن. يعني جمعا 44 آمپر.
ديگه چي بگم؟
آهان! اسم پاور! :d
ACBell 500W Gold

PFC فعال و غير فعال به چي ميگند ؟

[ARH]

SilverStone SST-ST56F Power Supply

http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=893

[ARH]

استفاده از دو پاور در يك سيستم

اين منظورش اينه كه از پاور برق مادربرد رو بگيريم و از اون يكي برق درايوها و كارت گرافيك ؟ نميشه از هردوشون برق مادربرد رو بگيريم ؟:rolleyes:

[gray_wolf]

اميد يك دستي ميزني ؟ :d :d :d

آقا جريان اين ريل هاي ولتاژ چيه ؟ مثلا پاوري كه دو تا ريل 12 ولت داره از پاور من كه هيچي نداره بد تره ؟ :wacko: :laugh:
اصولا ولتاژ 12 ولت بيشترين مصرف رو توي سيستمهاي جديد داره. پاوري كه دو يا چند ريل 12 ولت داره در صورتيكه فشار بيش از حدي به يكي از ريلها بياد، بدون هيچ مشكلي برق بقيه قسمتهاي سيستم رو كه از اونيكي ريل تغذيه ميكنن تامين ميكنه. يعني ميشه گفت اگه پاور شما 3 تا ريل 12 ولت داره درواقع شما 3 تا پاور مجزا دارين كه دارن به شما 12 ولت ميدن! اگه يكي از پاورها ضعيف بشه بقيه طوريشون نميشه. چون توي سيستمهاي مدرن، قطعاتي وجود دارن كه مصرف خيلي بالايي دارن كه اين مصرف بالا ميتونه باعث بشه به پاور فشار بياد و روي كل سيستم تاثير بذاره...

[gray_wolf]

PFC فعال و غير فعال به چي ميگند ؟
PFC مخفف Power Pactor Correction هست. به زبان ساده درواقع ولتاژ ورودي پاور رو كنترل ميكنه تا داخال رنج تعيين شده باشه. جلوي نوسانات برق ورودي پاور رو ميگيره كه در نتيجه باعث به وجود اومدن يه جريان تميز از ولتاژهاي مورد نياز كامپيوتر ميشه. پاورهاي Active PFC ديگه اون دكمه power select كه بين 120 ولت و 220 ولت انتخاب ميشد رو هم ندارن و اين كارو بصورت اتوماتيك انجام ميدن.

[gray_wolf]

اين منظورش اينه كه از پاور برق مادربرد رو بگيريم و از اون يكي برق درايوها و كارت گرافيك ؟ نميشه از هردوشون برق مادربرد رو بگيريم ؟:rolleyes:
آهان! اين سيستم دقيقا پدربزرگ پاورهاي جديد هست كه چند تا ريل 12 ولت دارن! :wink:

[Rhazes]

اميد يك دستي ميزني ؟ :d :d :d شايعه شده اگه حتمي 24 پين نبنديم هاردامون ميپره

آقا جريان اين ريل هاي ولتاژ چيه ؟ مثلا پاوري كه دو تا ريل 12 ولت داره از پاور من كه هيچي نداره بد تره ؟ :wacko: :laugh:
من نمی دونم.! ولی می دونم که ممکنه اطلاعاتتون مثل من بپره! یه عالمه عکس!! اونم مال مردم!:cry: آره ARH جان! اینطوریاست.:cry4:

[ARH]

من نمی دونم.! ولی می دونم که ممکنه اطلاعاتتون مثل من بپره! یه عالمه عکس!! اونم مال مردم!:cry: آره ARH جان! اینطوریاست.:cry4:

راستش وقتي در جريان قرار گرفتم نم تحت تاثير قرار گرفتم . نميدونم چي بگم والا:sad:

[AMD>INTEL]

پاورهاي جديد و مدرن حداقل 3 يا 4 ريل 12 ولت دارن. كه اين ريل ها معمولا يكي از همه بالاتره از لحاظ آمپر كه براي گرافيك استفاده ميشه.مثلا aopen 700w چهار تا ريل 12 داره

[Hwt]

لينك سايت acbel :
http://www.acbel.com.tw/

[Hwt]

چگونه پاور رو عيب يابي كنيم؟:

Learn How To Diagnose Power Supply Problems

The Power Supply convert's your regular household current into low DC voltage used by the computer. When this component fails,there is simply no activity going on wih your computer.Remember to do the easy troubleshooting first.Inspect the Power Supply for any damage.Double-Check all connections.

Learning how to check your power supply and how to replace it when needed can be a life saver if you're a computer buff or in business with the trusted PC.Don't take for granted the simple pleasure of turning on your PC and everything works just fine.

We turned on one of our computers recently and in about one hour,it just re-booted itself.And it continued doing so about 10 times a day until we found out the power supply was the culprit.Things to look for when your power supply is going bad or just dies on you are the following.

NO POWER TO THE COMPUTER

Here you must first check the wall outlet for power by connecting another device such as a radio or lamp to be sure power is present.If the computer is connected through a surge protector,check it as well.

If the wall out has power,check the power cable going to the PC to see if AC voltage is making its way to the system unit.Do this with the use of a multimeter.

If there is power,you will have to open the PC and check for power from the power supply to the motherboard.

When using a multimeter to check voltage,be sure you have a good ground for the black lead of the multimeter.

RE-BOOTING PROBLEMS

One main problem you may face with an ailing Power Supply is that it may re-boot the computer without any warning.All information is lost and it seems as though this happens at the worst possible time.

Booting errors when the computer first start's up is another indicator of this component going on the blink.

POWER DISTRIBUTION PROBLEMS

When the power supply begins to fail,you may receive power at one device and not another.For example,the Hard Drive may receive power but the CDROM Drive has nothing at all.

Another headache with would cause re-booting is the intermittent power going to the drives or the motherboard itself.Follow the steps below to check your power supply should you experience some of the above problems.

CHECKING THE POWER SUPPLY

If the wall outlet,and the power cord are good,make sure the connection at the motherboard is secure.Then you may have to face the fact that the power supply itself is bad.If you have a Multimeter you can test the power supply output before purchasing a new one.Simply follow these steps.

Turn off the PC,but do not unplug it,open the system unit. Set the multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts.Locate a power connector similair to the hard drive,or cdrom drive connector that is unused and turn on the PC.

You can also unplug a drive connector and use it as well.Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into the power connector on one of the BLACK wires.Touch the RED probe to the YELLOW wire on the power connector.

The multimeter reading should be 12 volts Now touch the RED probe to the RED wire and the reading should be 5 volts.If no readings or different readings occured,you'll have to replace the power supply.If the readings were correct,you should check the P8 or P9 connectors at the motherboard. These connectors may also be named P4 and P5.To check these connectors,perform the following...

Insert the BLACK probe into P8 at one of the BLACK wires. Insert the RED probe into the P8 connector at the RED wire. The reading on the multimeter should be 5 volts

Check the power going to the Motherboard connections by inserting the RED probe into P8 at the YELLOW wire and you should get 12 volts.Leave the BLACK wire touching the black wire at the P8 connector.Check the BLUE wire and the reading should be a -12 volts.

Now move the BLACK probe to the BLACK wire on the P9 connector.Test the WHITE wire by inserting the RED probe and the reading should be -5 volts.Check the RED wires on the P9 connector and you should get 5 volts on each red wire.You won't get exactly 5 or 12 volts but the readings will be very close, such as 5.02 volts.

If the Power Supply is a couple of volts off,in either direction,such as when the RED wire should be reading -5 volts but it reads -8 volts,or if there are no readings,replace the power supply.

DO NOT remove the power supply from the system unit case when performing these tests.DO NOT perform these tests if you do not feel comfortable.Be sure to remove any and all electrical static build-up from your clothes and body BEFORE touching any parts inside the system unit.And NEVER open the power supply case for any reason,since high voltage may be present.

[AMD>INTEL]

یه مطلب جالب درباره پاورهای جدید:
http://compreviews.about.com/od/cases/a/ATX12VvATX.htm